The water needs of conference goers were supplied in part by ecosystem services provided by the Pixquiac river basin, along the southeast side of the volcano Cofre de Perote. The river basin is home to a few hundred farming families in three ejido communities. The ejido system is a form of communal land holding whose origin stretches back to the conquest. Allotments (ejidos) were given to indigenous communities, in many cases, as a way of keeping them near the missions of the Catholic Church. Later, through many land redistributions over time, the Ejido Act was codified in the Mexican constitution and has had many reforms since its inception. The end result in the Pixquiac river basin is the three ejido communities of San Pedro: Pixquiac Vega, Palo Blanco and El Zapotal.
The general assembly of San Pedro agreed that the common areas associated with cloud forests in the area would be designated reserves for the promotion of ecotourism and ecosystem services. With funding and support of many different initiatives and entities, the ecotourism project, Pixquiac Cañadas was born. The project hopes to provide an alternative to logging which has been the primary option for farmers in the region. Twenty-eight farmers are dedicated to the ecotourism project and continually undergo training so that guests might share their knowledge of the area while at the same time preserving its character physically and culturally.
Over 15 SEB conference goers participated in an all day field trip to the river basin and its associated cloud forests. Arriving at Rancho Viejo, we were greeted by project personnel and several farmers with a few horses to be shared among us. After a short ride, we were treated to a presentation on the project that included a wonderful 3-D model of the watershed with villages, rivers and mountains mapped on its surface. They patiently explained to our multi-lingual crowd the history of the site, purpose of the ecotourism project and plans for our path during the day.
As the interesting talk ended, the ~14km hike was a steady climb on rocky terrain up to the final stop (not the ultimate summit) of ~2400m. We took turns riding horses when our feet got tired of navigating the rocks and the steep incline. Along the way, we stopped at various intervals for discussions of plants led by our farmer guides. After about 1.5 hours we made our first stop at a local home where we were served a wonderful local meal including milk still warm from the cow, small native avocados and much more. After a short bathroom break with a compostable toilet (perfect!), we made our way up to a lovely green meadow, waterfall and small pool where many people swam, waded and warmed themselves in the gentle sunshine. At this point, a few people turned back, while most continued on.
As we climbed higher, we noticed pine trees persisting on mountain ridges from more northerly reaches of the continent. Though it may not have been a surprise to the tropical botanists in the crowd, the steep slopes were covered in butterworts, or Pinguicula species. How amazing to see this small carnivorous plant growing vertically in this, the country of enormous butterwort diversity! Finally, as we made it to the top, we shared a meal with a local family that included trout soup (harvested from the trout farm at the base of the mountain), handmade (of course!) corn tortillas, a deliciously refreshing mango drink and more. After heading back down the steep terrain, we encountered first rain, then thunder and lightning (very intense) and finally, hail the size of malted milk balls! The farmers, ever mindful of the effect of all that rain on the multiple river crossings coming up, moved us forward despite the hail. A small group on foot broke away quickly from those of us in the rear of the pack riding horses (crossing the many creeks, now flowing strongly). After catching up with them, we managed to make it to the van just as dark began to descend.
Though conditions were perhaps too harsh for the average American tourist, I think many would thoroughly enjoy this amazing location. However, beyond the obvious benefits of the lush environment, I doubt many places could match the hospitality, compassion, patience, intelligence and dedication demonstrated by the farmers who were our nature guides in this lovely cloud forested habitat that is their home.
This trip will live in my mind for some time and I am only saddened that I couldn’t provide more detailed information, but alas-the rain destroyed my many notes.
Since visiting, I’ve noticed that they are on Facebook and currently have a blog dedicated to experiences in the watershed. I for one-would love to purchase a guide of some kind-perhaps including the perspectives of the local farmers who were our guides. So, if you make it to Xalapa again, don’t hesitate to visit-this kind of support is exactly how to provide economic and ecologic benefits to local inhabitants and habitats.
In the meantime, don’t forget to visit the Pixquiac Cañadas blog, listed below. Additionally, see my blog below for pictures of the trip compiled from photos of many participants. My apologies to the donors-I do not know everyone who donated, nor whose photo is whose-please feel free to email that to me and I will post it on the page (carlson@clemson.edu).
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